Designers

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid

Roberto Diz

Quinta dos Perfumes is an oneiric journey from the north to the south of Portugal, a country that features in the childhood memories of the designer, as well as a look at the work of Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos. The S/S 2020 collection pays homage to the traditions and culture of Portugal, from the Alentejo to Valença do Minho, the light of the Algarve and its coasts, the indigo blue, white and black of the mourning and the “saudade lusa”. Roberto Diz fuses 1950s elegance with folklore and traditional clothing, recreating classic cuts in natural fabrics from cotton to silk, fabrics that recall fishing nets are transformed into figure-skimming evening gowns embroidered with the filigree so significant in this country. Roberto Diz prints floral motifs onto traditional Portuguese clothing on silk satin and knit transforming them into suggestive Saharan shirt dresses and trousers. Religious iconography appears in some embroidered pieces in glimmering crystal and jet.

Collection lines

For the Fall/Winter 20/21 collection, designer Roberto Diz is inspired by Concorde's last flight, the secrets held in aircraft black boxes and the reality of mass human transportation and the characteristics of new luxury. The collection is made up of fictitious garments extracted from crashed aircraft fuselages, as well as the secrets that are kept in the black boxes. The colour palette for the collection introduces new features into the brand's usual colour chart and although black has a great presence, as it is the designer's favourite colour, more intense colours appear this season such as yellow in various ranges, greens and navy blue in both matt and shiny fabric. The classic cheviot is decontextualised in this collection and gives shape to party dresses. Safety belts are transformed, in this case by means of elastic bands in the garments that press on the body giving it a new shape. Tuxedos rescued from the fuselage remains appear in different variants, unstructured and oversize and more tailored and glamorous for evening parties. The silhouettes range from the wasp waist of the 50s in more corseted garments, to sophisticated, light and unstructured tunics. The secrets of the black box are expressed in delicate Chantilly lace in vibrant colours that partly reveal the naked body. For the Fall/Winter 20/21 collection, Roberto Diz has given more importance than ever to accessories, to achieve this he has worked with two top-notch collaborators - Benjamín Bulnes, who created last winter's hats for the brand, and the expert shoemaker craftsman Vicente King who has created handmade pieces for this collection following luxury standards.

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