Quinta dos Perfumes is an oneiric journey from the north to the south of Portugal, a country that features in the childhood memories of the designer, as well as a look at the work of Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos. The S/S 2020 collection pays homage to the traditions and culture of Portugal, from the Alentejo to Valença do Minho, the light of the Algarve and its coasts, the indigo blue, white and black of the mourning and the “saudade lusa”. Roberto Diz fuses 1950s elegance with folklore and traditional clothing, recreating classic cuts in natural fabrics from cotton to silk, fabrics that recall fishing nets are transformed into figure-skimming evening gowns embroidered with the filigree so significant in this country. Roberto Diz prints floral motifs onto traditional Portuguese clothing on silk satin and knit transforming them into suggestive Saharan shirt dresses and trousers. Religious iconography appears in some embroidered pieces in glimmering crystal and jet.
The SS2020 collection shows some evolution in the brand’s models, with softer shoulders and far less structured tailoring for more flowing lines. There are also totally destructured silk satin pieces and others in cotton rib with a sportier, more urban look for a younger, more casual target. Roberto’s classic shapes become lighter and adorn long dresses which are, without a doubt, the brand's hallmark, although on this occasion the designer has chosen black over white and set aside matt fabrics in favour of rich, shiny materials that reflect the light like the white walls of the Algarve.