Interview with Carmen Torres, General Secretary of ASECOM

Speaking from ASECOM, how would you describe the current state of the fashion and clothing sector?

The sector is undergoing a period of profound transformation. There is a degree of uncertainty, as companies must adapt rapidly to new regulations, a changing consumer, and a complex international context. At the same time, however, interesting opportunities are also emerging.

Companies have emerged from difficult  years, which has forced many to rethink how they produce, sell, and position themselves. At the moment, numerous factors are coinciding and converging: sustainability, digitalisation, rising costs, changing consumption patterns and international tensions that directly affect companies on a day-to-day basis. This is, logically, felt most acutely by SMEs and micro‑SMEs, which make up the majority of the sector. Many are making significant efforts to adapt without losing competitiveness.

Even so, we believe the sector is showing a strong capacity to respond. Some companies are finding opportunities precisely in higher value‑added products, in local manufacturing and in more specialised market segments. And that is important because Spanish fashion continues to have very clear strengths in design, quality, industrial capacity and experience.

At the same time, we see that companies need support. There are regulatory and technological changes that demand training, investment and constant adaptation, and it is important that all of this is accompanied by measures that genuinely help businesses, especially smaller ones. This is precisely where ASECOM is focusing many of its efforts: supporting companies through this transition with practical tools and greater confidence. 

What data or trends have you been seeing in recent months in terms of activity, business development or the market? 

In recent months, we have seen the sector evolving at different speeds, depending on the type of company and its positioning. Some companies are noticing a slowdown in consumer spending, while others are performing well because they have found more specialised niches or have a very clearly defined value proposition.

We are seeing a fairly clear trend towards more flexible, higher value‑added business models. Many companies are opting for shorter, more controlled and more local production. International uncertainty and the logistical problems of recent years have led many businesses to reconsider local manufacturing.

We are also seeing that sustainability has become a far more tangible factor in business decision‑making. It was once viewed largely as an image issue, but companies now understand that it has a direct impact on competitiveness, market access and positioning.

In terms of consumption, we continue to see caution. Customers compare more, think more carefully about their purchases and look for brands with a clear identity. It is no longer enough to have a good product; you also have to stand out.

As for exports, fashion continues to play a significant role within the Spanish economy. In fact, it accounts for around 9% of the country’s exports. Some remain strategic for many Spanish companies, although the international context means they must operate with greater caution and diversify risks.

Another very prominent factor in the sector is technology. There is increasing discussion around traceability, artificial intelligence, automation and the digital product passport. These are topics that a few years ago seemed distant but today form part of the day‑to‑day reality of many businesses.

Overall, we see a sector that is adapting very quickly and learning to compete in a different way. 

What are the main challenges for companies in the sector right now: costs, production, distribution and internationalisation?

Fashion and clothing sector companies are currently facing a combination of challenges that affect the entire value chain. The main challenge is probably adapting to an increasingly complex environment without losing competitiveness.

On the one hand, regulatory issues linked to sustainability are driving significant change. The introduction of new European requirements relating to eco‑design, traceability and Extended Producer Responsibility is forcing many companies to adapt very quickly and to make investments that are not always easy to undertake. In this context, ASECOM is supporting businesses throughout the process with various programmes, workshops and projects — for example on EPR, the digital product passport and the circular economy — because many companies need very specific guidance.

Add to this rising costs, which is still a constant concern. Energy, raw materials, logistics, financing and labour costs continue to put considerable pressure on companies.

In terms of production, we are also seeing significant changes. The market demands greater speed and flexibility, and this is leading many businesses to reconsider how and where they manufacture. There is growing interest in recovering some local production capacity, although this requires investment and skilled personnel.

Another important challenge is marketing. Consumers have changed a lot, and companies have to constantly adapt to new ways of selling, communicating, and engaging with their customers. The digital dimension is now absolutely indispensable.

As for internationalisation, it represents a clear growth opportunity for many companies, but the current international context calls for much greater caution than in the past. Added to this is increasing concern about generational renewal and the shortage of certain technical profiles.

In this context, what do brands need today to stand out and have a presence in the professional channel?

Today, companies need a clear identity. There is a great deal of competition, and the market is much more saturated than it was a few years ago, so differentiation is essential.

The companies that are performing best are usually those with a very clear idea of what they want to offer and who they are targeting. Some stand out for their design, others for their specialisation, others for their quality or closeness to the client, but all of them have something recognisable.

Reliability is also increasingly valued. In the professional channel, it is vital to meet deadlines, respond effectively and build trust. Ultimately, business relationships are built for the long term.

Sustainability is still important, but it is no longer enough to talk about it. The market demands concrete actions and consistency between what a brand communicates and what it actually does.

Another key aspect is adaptability. Companies must react quickly, understand how the market is changing and continuously adjust both their product and commercial strategy.

Moreover, direct contact still holds a lot of value. Trade shows and professional meetings continue to be very important for generating business and visibility. At ASECOM, we aim to support companies precisely in this positioning and in building connections with buyers and professionals in the sector.

At ASECOM, we emphasise that differentiation cannot be merely rhetorical. It has to be reflected in the product, in the way of working and in the relationship with the customer.

MOMAD will hold a more select edition in July, focusing on product, sectorisation and the shopping experience. What does this type of format offer brands and buyers?

We believe that this type of format fits quite well with what the market is demanding right now. Today, brands are looking for quality of contact rather than volume, and buyers also need to work more efficiently.

Sectorisation helps a great deal because it allows each brand to be better positioned and to connect with the buyer profile that truly matches its product. And for professional visitors, it is also more convenient. You can more easily identify the proposals that interest you and devote more time to discovering distinctive products.

Moreover, trade fairs have changed a great deal. It is no longer just about presenting collections; today they have a very strong focus on relationships, experience and networking. In fashion, face‑to‑face contact remains essential. Many business relationships begin precisely at this type of event, and that continues to be extremely valuable for companies.

In this respect, are we seeing a greater commitment to differentiated products, premium brands or propositions with their own identity? 

Yes, clearly. We are increasingly seeing more companies seeking to differentiate themselves through their products and brand positioning.

Competing solely on price is very difficult, especially for many Spanish companies, so brands are looking for more clearly defined propositions with higher added value. Not everything has to fall within the premium segment, but it does require having a distinct identity and a coherent offer. This is something the market is valuing highly. 

What position does Spanish fashion hold today in the international context, and how are companies in the sector facing the coming months?

Spanish fashion continues to be known and recognised worldwide for the combination of design, quality and adaptability that characterises many of the sector’s brands. However, the international context requires caution. Companies are aware that the coming months will require them to keep adapting very quickly, especially in response to European regulations and wider market transformation. At ASECOM, we are working to help companies with precisely this process of adaptation, both through training and by offering support and creating spaces for collaboration.

We also believe it is important to continue defending the industrial and economic value of the sector, because fashion in Spain is not only about creativity; behind it there is industry, employment and many SMEs that need to remain competitive. The sector faces major challenges, but it also has the experience and the capacity to meet them.